Choosing the right CO2 laser power is a balancing act between cutting thickness, speed, and engraving quality.
While you can technically cut thick wood with low power by running the machine very slowly or making multiple passes, this often results in badly charred, hourglass-shaped edges. For a clean, professional cut in a single pass, you need sufficient power.
Here is a practical guide to matching CO2 tube wattage to wood thickness.
📏 Quick Reference: Power vs. Maximum Practical Thickness
This chart estimates the maximum thickness you can cut cleanly in a single pass at a reasonable production speed.
| Laser Power | Best For | Max Practical Thickness (Plywood/Softwood) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 40W – 50W | Engraving & Thin Stock | 3mm – 6mm (1/8″ – 1/4″) | Cuts 6mm slowly. Excellent for fine detailed engraving. |
| 60W – 80W | The “Sweet Spot” | 6mm – 12mm (1/4″ – 1/2″) | The most versatile range. Balances cutting depth with engraving precision. |
| 100W – 130W | Production Cutting | 12mm – 18mm (1/2″ – 3/4″) | Cuts 6mm very fast. Beam spot is larger, so fine engraving detail drops slightly. |
| 150W+ | Heavy Duty | 18mm – 25mm (3/4″ – 1″) | Can cut inch-thick wood, but edges will have significant charring (carbonization). |
🔍 Detailed Breakdown by Usage
1. The Hobbyist / Engraver (40W – 50W)
- Ideal for: Making ornaments, architectural models, cardstock, and thin veneer work.
- Limitation: If you try to cut 10mm wood, you will likely start a fire or create a messy, black edge because the laser moves too slowly to vaporize the material cleanly.
2. The Small Business All-Rounder (60W – 80W)
- Why it’s popular: This is the standard for most “prosumer” machines (like OmTech or mid-range Aeon/Thunder Laser).
- Capability: It can fly through 3mm plywood and comfortably handle 6mm MDF. It can tackle 12mm hardwood occasionally, but it won’t be fast.
- Engraving: Still maintains a small enough beam spot size to produce photo-realistic engravings.
3. The Production Workhorse (100W – 150W)
- Why choose this: If your primary job is cutting shapes out of 6mm-12mm material all day, you need this. A 100W laser cuts nearly 2x faster than a 60W laser on the same material.
- The Trade-off: High-power tubes are physically longer and produce a “thicker” beam. This means your “kerf” (the width of material removed) is wider, and you cannot engrave extremely fine fonts (under 4pt) as crisply as a 40W machine.
💡 Critical Factors Beyond Just “Watts”
Power isn’t the only variable. If you plan to cut thick wood (over 10mm), you must consider these two upgrades regardless of your wattage:
1. The Lens Focal Length
Standard machines come with a 2.0″ lens. This is a general-purpose lens.
- For Thick Wood (10mm+): Switch to a 2.5″ or 4.0″ lens. These lenses have a longer “depth of field,” meaning the laser beam stays focused/straight for a longer distance. This prevents the “hourglass” or V-shaped edge where the cut is wide at the top and bottom but narrow in the middle.
2. Air Assist Pressure
Cutting thick wood requires high-pressure air (30-50 psi).
- The laser beam burns the wood; the air jet blows the charcoal and smoke out of the cut.
- Without strong air, a high-power 130W laser will just burn a charred crater rather than cutting through.
🏁 Recommendation
- Buy 60W-80W if you want to do 50% cutting and 50% engraving, mostly on materials under 1/4 inch (6mm).
- Buy 100W-130W if you are running a business focused on cutting production (signage, furniture parts) and speed is money.