How to quickly solve the malfunction of a handheld laser welding machine?

How to quickly solve the malfunction of a handheld laser welding machine? Solving the malfunction of a handheld laser welding machine usually involves a process of elimination starting with the most common “safety interlock” issues before moving to complex hardware faults.

Here is a quick troubleshooting guide organized by the most common symptoms.

Most common cause: Safety Interlocks.

Check Point	Diagnosis & Solution
Safety Ground Clamp	#1 Cause: The safety clamp (alligator clip) MUST be attached to the metal table or the workpiece. If the welding gun tip does not detect the electrical loop with the clamp, it will not fire. Fix: Re-clamp it to a clean metal surface (grind off rust/paint if needed).
Screen Alarms	Look at the control screen. Is there an alarm for “Laser Source,” “Chiller,” or “Head”? • Chiller Alarm: Check water level or if the water hose is bent.• Head Alarm: Usually means the temperature sensor in the gun is too hot. Let it cool down.
Laser Button	Ensure the “Laser Enable” or “Emission” button on the screen is actually toggled ON. Many machines default to “OFF” on startup for safety.
Red Light Status	If you see the Red Guide Light but no laser: The fiber source is powered but not receiving the “fire” signal. Check the trigger button on the gun.

This is the most frustrating and expensive recurring issue. It is almost always an operator or setup error.

Check Gas Pressure: If air pressure is too low, smoke and spatter will backflow into the nozzle and burn the lens.
- Target: Nitrogen/Argon should be 15–20 L/min. If using shop air, ensure it is clean and dry (oil/water in air destroys lenses instantly).
Wrong Welding Angle:NEVER weld vertically (90°) to the surface.
- Fix: Always tilt the gun at 45° to 60°. Vertical welding causes the laser beam to reflect straight back up into the gun, overheating the optics.
Dirty Cover Glass: Inspect the protective lens before starting. If it has even a tiny black spec, the laser will heat that spec until the glass cracks. Replace it immediately.
Delayed Gas Off: In your settings, ensure “Gas Off Delay” is set to 200ms – 500ms. This keeps the gas flowing for half a second after you stop welding to cool the lens and blow away the last bit of smoke.

The laser is firing, but the weld is sitting on top of the metal (cold weld).

Check Focus Position: This is the most critical setting.
- Fix: For deep penetration, the focus usually needs to be 0 (on surface) or slightly negative (inside material, e.g., -1mm). If the focus is too high (+), the beam is too wide and weak.
Scan Width (Wobble): If the wobble width is too wide (e.g., 5mm), the energy is spread too thin.
- Fix: Reduce wobble width to 1.5mm – 2.5mm to concentrate the heat.
Dirty Protective Lens: A damaged lens absorbs laser power. If you are running at 1000W but it feels like 500W, check the lens.

The weld looks dirty, sooty, or has holes (Swiss cheese).

Gas Coverage: You are likely losing gas shielding.
- Fix: Check if the nozzle is clogged with spatter. Increase gas flow slightly. Ensure no fan is blowing directly on the weld area (blowing the gas away).
Material Contamination: Laser welding hates oil and rust.
- Fix: Wipe the area with Acetone or grind it clean. Oil residue turns into black soot instantly under a laser.

Wire Tip Blob: A small ball of metal often forms at the tip of the wire after a weld.
- Fix: Cut the tip of the wire with pliers before starting the next long weld.
Tube Resistance: If the wire feed tube is coiled too tightly on the floor, the wire can’t push through smoothy. Straighten the cable.
Drive Rolls: Check if the drive rolls in the feeder are slipping (tighten tension) or chewing the wire (loosen tension).

类似文章